Friday, November 16, 2012

Museums, Open-Air Markets, and More


 Last Friday, I went with Andrea to see “Skyfall”, the newest James Bond movie. It was dubbed in Spanish so I had to pay real close attention the entire time to follow the plot line. I actually was able to follow a fair amount of the movie. There were points when I was a bit confused but, overall, it was a success. Javier Bardem was amazing as the villain!

The grading system in Spain is so different than it is in the states. Here, the lowest passing grade is a 50 (out of 100)! At first when we were doing evaluations for the observed classes of our peers in the TEFL program, I felt odd putting, say, a “six” for one of the criteria- in the US, that would be failing!

Last weekend I went to el Museo Reina Sofia, one of the three famous museums in Madrid (along with the Prado and Thyssen-Bornemisza.) I got there around six and, once again, the museum entry was free. The museum itself is huge: I got lost multiple times going through its huge arches and rooms. “Guernica” by Picasso is housed in the museum as well as various paintings by Salvador Dahlí. Standing in front of such a famous painting was incredible; I've seen Guernica in movies and ads as well as on postcards but seeing it with my own eyes was great. Unfortunately, you were not allowed to take photos of it, but at the least I'll have the memory of seeing this beautiful piece of art in person.

In another room were pictures of military dictatorships throughout Central and South America and Spain: Perú, Argentina, Chile, Spain, and a couple others. I was particularly drawn to this room given that I wrote my thesis on the desaparecidos (“disappeared ones”) in Argentina during the military dictatorship. In this exhibit, I saw signs of many of the topics I wrote about. Most prominent were pictures of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo holding signs, pictures of their loved one's faces emblazoned on the surface. In the same room were photos recreating the repression in all these dictatorships: naked bodies piled on top of each other in every which way, another of four naked people with their back towards the photographer, palms against the wall as if the individuals are being held up. For those who know Spanish and are interested, here's an article on the exhibit:


The other day, I went to a pub with Andrea and Andres (flatmates) to meet up with some friends of Andrea. Some of them were from Spain, others from Portugal, a few from Mexico. We were chatting in an area towards the back when a man came in and started talking to all of us. He had this little toy where you fold it one way and another and it ends up looking exactly like it did before it was folded at all. I'd never experienced these solicitations of people selling random stuff in privately owned restaurants. Rather, it happened all the time in Argentina but this was the first time I'd seen it in Spain. After he left, everyone there noted that he was from Argentina! It's weird that I didn't pick up on the accent, especially given that it's so distinct.

Many of the students I've met through Andrea are here on an Erasmus scholarship. From what I understand, Erasmus is a program in all EU countries that sends college students to other countries within the EU. I suppose it makes sense that such a program doesn't exist in North America as the majority of the citizens speak English. In any case, it seems like an amazing way to gain more intercultural understanding.

Last week, I met with Lawrence, a friend of a friend back in the USA. At this point, Lawrence has lived here fourteen years and now works doing translations between Spanish and English. When we met for coffee, he kept telling me how there's a better quality of life here. One aspect of Spanish life he mentioned which I found particularly interesting was Spain's notion of citizenship. He explained that, if an individual is in the country for more than... I think it was 5 years, the Spanish government embraces that individual and will grant him citizenship. I'm sure it's not quite that simple but that's the gist. Quite different than immigration reform and the continuous debate surrounding the issue in the USA, where officials will deport “illegal aliens”, as it were, in a heartbeat.

There's a famous open-air market every Sunday called “El Rastro” in La Latina, the neighborhood where my flat is located. I've gone the past two Sundays with some friends and it's really cool. Both Sundays we've gotten there towards the end so the stands were closing up. However, the tostas in this one particular shop are definitely worth has slipped my mind. Regardless, the line is always out the door. Although it is a housed restaurant, it is only open when the Rastro's going on. Tostas are essentially bread with various toppings: anchovies, brie cheese, jam, meat, whipped cream, the list goes on. Both times I've gotten a tosta with brie cheese and homemade jam- SO good! Perhaps I'll branch out and try something else soon (to be fair, this is made somewhat harder given I don't eat red meat.)

On Tuesdays, I teach two siblings, one ten, the other fourteen. The lesson is an hour total, I see each for half an hour. I make two lesson plans as a four year gap makes quite the difference in terms of EFL classes. This past Tuesday, while in the middle of teaching the ten year old brother, his mom came in and told me that the older sister was speaking with a teacher at school. Thus, I would be spending the whole hour with Agustín. In the TEFL course, they taught us to always prepare extra material in case the lesson goes faster than anticipated. Luckily, I did bring extra material... but not enough for half an hour! Another tip I got from the TEFL class was to always “milk” an exercise—approach it from all angles (speaking, reading, writing, listening) so as to maximize it's use. Luckily, I was able to fill the 30 minutes.

Last weekend, I went to a discoteca, the first I've been to here in Spain. The discoteca was called “Joy” and it was actually pretty cool. It was essentially the same as the boliches I went to in Argentina: a raised platform with a DJ, huge crowd on the floor dancing or mingling about, a bar towards the entrance... Just as in the states, girls got in for free while guys paid a cover. As in Argentina, much of the music played was pop songs from the USA.

This past Wednesday there was a huge paro general not only throughout Spain but in Portugal and Greece as well (the countries in which the economic crisis is the worst.) The paro on the metro system about a month ago was nothing compared to the one yesterday: the majority of shops were closed, metros ran every half hour and many people were marching at various points during the day.
I didn't actively march, however I did see the effects of the manifestaciones afterwards: beside each ATM, people had written such words as “culpables” (“guilty”) or “asesinos” (“assassins”). In a particularly powerful piece of graffiti, someone had drawn a stick figure hanging on a noose. I also noticed the effects of the demonstrations when riding the metro: people were should to shoulder. To give you a sense of how packed it was: usually there's always a rail within reach for people to hold onto if standing. Yesterday, however, I had to push the palm of my hand against the roof of the car in order to stabilize myself, since all the handles were out of reach. I watched the news later that night and it showed huge crowds of people congregating in an area I had walked through earlier that afternoon.

A new flatmate moved in earlier this week. Her name's Maria and she's from California as well- small world, indeed. She's here on the auxiliares program, an arrangement between the US government and that of Spain to have native English speakers from the US come to Spain and help in English classrooms. She seems really nice and I'm looking forward to getting to know her better.

At this point, I have taught a total of 15 hours with my three clients out of the required 20. I have three lessons next week and then four the next week, so I'll be finished by the end of the month. I'm taking a long weekend next weekend to visit Granada, Spain. Granada is famous for “La Alhambra”, an Islamic palace built in the mid-10th century. I'll be leaving Madrid this coming Thursday (no clients on Friday), returning Sunday afternoon. No doubt I will have much to say about the palace upon returning as well as a handful of photos.

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